Used 1967 MGB GT - Red - Overdrive and so much more - - by for sale in Spokane, WA

Daily Driven 1967 MGB GT for sale!

Please Email for more pictures! I have high resolution close-ups of everything around the exterior, interior, engine bay, and a couple pictures under the lift. Craigslist doesn't let me post links within this post without flagging itself.

Drives like a bat out of hell (or spirited if you prefer)
Starts every time without hesitation, even below freezing
Steering is tight, firm, straight
Electrical works completely
Brakes can lock tires up

Overall, she's extremely well off mechanically but wouldn't mind some cosmetic lovin'

I'd take it anywhere, anytime, without hesitation.
CAR HISTORY

Approximately 35,000 miles aka one decade ago. (not me)
5 Main bearing Swap
9.5:1 forged pistons, fully balanced
Gas Flowed Aluminum Head, 103hp at flywheel
Carbs Rebuilt
Maseratti Air Horns
Torque Reduction Starter
4 Syncro + O/D
New Clutch
Stainless Header Back Exhaust
New Radiator & Hoses
New Fuel Tank and Pump
Springs & Bushings replaced with Urethane
Rebuilt Shocks
New Rotors/Pads, Rebuilt Calipers/Cylinders & rear shoes
Stainless Brake Hoses all around
Alloy Hood

7/6/18
4 New Splined Hubs and Minilite (style) Steel Centers
Replaced Front Wheel Bearings
Replaced Front Calipers and Brake Lines
K&N air filters
Bigger aftermarket accelerator pedal

7/16/19
New 25D Jeff Schemer Distributor
Struts for bonnet and boot

~

Since I’ve owned it from last November…
Replaced Generator with 110 Amp Delco Alternator with Midget Bracket
New Coil, BP6ES plugs, 54406 Wires, dizzy cap, points,
6.5 kick speakers, massive Amp behind passenger seat, 6.5” sub in center console, dash tweeters, mini BLUETOOTH deck with sub amp and EQ/Master Vol hidden under dash near gas gauge
4 New Winter Tires
During head gasket change, lapped in four new Exhaust valves and lapped all other intake valves unnecessarily (have pictures of head removed too)
Inner and outer Hatch Seals, Additional boot rubber too
Stainless Moss threshold plates
Transmission oil change to 3.4L of 4D20/50
All new Dash Lamps
Custom Bronco Heater Valve
New Tex side mirrors
Added ignition on circuit fuse box
Coolant overflow tank
Rubber floor mats

Tons of Various little fixes noted in the car journal and probably something I'm overlooking.

Random Facts:
Last (cold) compression test: 176,167,176,167 psi
Beneath car is Virtually Rust Free!
Nardi Steering Wheel
Later rear axle, not Banjo Style
Later Style seats with Headrests
Original Wire Wheel Spare
Original Radio Worked before I disconnected it
Oil consumption is relatively minimal, it’s not spewing anywhere
Drivers side floor pan was replaced, looks better than new
Boots look good, everything underbody too
Washed and waxed with Jetseal

Comes with:
Lead Hammer, naturally
Car Cover
Fire Extinguisher
Old Generator and various other crap pulled from car, original boot lift mechanisms, replacements, etc

Setup:
14 degrees BTDC
.15 new dizzy pts, spare included
.15 rockers
.25 gapped plugs
Head Torqued to 54 ft lbs

NOW FOR THE BAD! Read carefully and ask more!

Paint is crazing all over roof and peeling up or minimally beginning to chip off in various places. The 5 foot fake-out is strong (being modest always gets people defending it's condition)

Small dent in front passenger fender into hood and grille from some retard in a parking lot

Electrical is a rats nest under hood, I might complete the constant 12v fusebox swap and wrap everything before sale

Pin-Hole leak in front of radiator (lasts for months without fill-up as is)

Windshield washer pump is leaking behind dash, so I haven’t been using it

Side Mirrors are a * show, apparently the two tex plinths aren’t the same size and after widening the holes, the passenger side is loose (but hangs on) but the corner window hits it. There are four screw holes and exposed sharpie on the paint from previous mirrors in drivers door. I would fill the holes with epoxy filler or weld and grind them before next paint job and stay the hell away from Tex next time. Jaguar E-type mirrors have been calling my name.

Both crank windows are scratched from old dry rubber seals (get new windows and rubber for $200 or so on Moss)

There was a drill first, measure second scenario for a single side side of both the trunk struts and the hood (wasn't me). There are basically two tiny exposed screw holes in both. Alloy Hood is dented anyways, I'd revert back to steel if doing a cosmetic restoration.

Bonnet and Boot aren’t flush, but I have never tried adjusting them

Headliner isn't beautiful

Drivers seat is wearing on backrest bolster and center fabrics

Speedo is way off but steady, Tach waves hello when you flog the throttle

ONLY water leaks are both foot wells closest to fender. I think water squeezes past the edge of the fenders from beneath the hood or where they attach to wheel wells

I’m sure there’s a bit more absolutely minimal little things I’m forgetting, but the little projects are part of the fun. I can talk your ear off about this car and tell you how to rebuild every last aspect of it from the ground up.
If you live in Washington, you can keep the 66' Washington State plate and you'll never have to pay for tabs again.
PRICE IS COMPLETELY FIRM. IT'S A TOTAL WASH FOR ME. Consider the value of the engine mods, especially given the year. You will not find a metal dash with OD and extra HP for anything less. Don't get caught up on that diarrhea brown rubber bumper piece of crap, you want CHROME. YOU want pre-emissions. You want to feel like James Bond. I am your huckleberry