Used 1972 Chevrolet C10 - Pro Touring for sale in Portland, OR

For sale is our 1972 Chevy C10. We have been using this as a shop truck for a few years now, but have recently moved and don’t have room to do much with it currently, and business has shifted temporarily away from older vehicles. We hate seeing projects sit idle, so we thought we’d see if there is another loving home who wants to take the build further.

Here is what it came with when we bought it, what we put into it, and what we think it needs to be even better.

-What it has (from previous owners):

Engine and Running Gear:
-GM crate 350 engine (~290hp). This was when we bought it and is about ten years old. I have paperwork for this engine (just moved, so have to find the box with it). It holds good oil pressure (running 10-30w Mobil 1 currently), doesn’t overheat, and runs smooth.
-12-bolt posi rear end
-Small C-notch
-Aluminum radiator (not sure on brand, was in when we bought it).

Exterior:
-Custom bed length. It’s not a long bed or a short bed. The rear was chopped shorter and widened. It is also tubbed.
-Custom front bumper
-Thin paint job. The paint looks okay in most places, but it’s pretty thin. Hard to tell how thin the current color is. It has 9-12mils of paint in some areas, so it likely has 1-2 “paint jobs” over the metal. It’s matte, which makes it harder to clean and remove imperfections.
-Rust appears to be minimal, but honestly you never knew until you strip it. We won’t make any claims on rust that we can’t back up.

Interior:
-Bluetooth retro sound radio - Needs to be connected to speakers, previous owners amp wiring was faulty
-What we added:

Engine boltons:
-We added a new HEI distributor, Edelbrock fuel pump, 650cfm Edelbrock carb, and Fuellab filter with AN line to the 350.

Transmission:
-700R4 transmission with proper kickdown, new steel 1-piece driveshaft (replaced 2 piece), and Dirty Dingo transmission mount.

Wheels and Tires:
-Forgeline ML3C Wheels 20x12 (rear) and 20x11 (front) ($4,974)
-Continental extreme contact all-season performance tires (about 800 miles on them). It’s a square setup riding on 315/35 R20 on all 4 corners ($1,100)

Braking:
-Baer 4-piston front brakes, 2-piston rear, CPP drop spindles, and Baer aluminum master ($3,514)
-Converted the braking over to a hydroboost, and it brakes HARD with the contact patch of these tires. ($500)
-New Moser axles, custom-milled to fit Baer brakes (they were too big initially) $300)

Handling:
-Ridetech upper and lower control arms with front coilover suspension and sway bar. It uses their single-adjustable coilovers. Right now they’re set for what I consider aggressive-street, meaning they aren’t punishing, but have room to be softer if you desire. Only takes minutes to adjust them. ($2,400)
- New Redhead steering box, new steering components including (collapsable) steering shaft and joints, pitman arm, idler arm, tie rod ends, billet tie rod adjusters ($500)
- Shortened steering shaft to move the steering wheel a few inches inward, giving more cabin room.

Lighting and Interior:
-Dapper 7” V2 headlights. These feature interior and exterior halos, tastefully built and setup, and have integrated turn signals (halo flashes amber, then switches back white when not in use). These are DOT legal, have a great cutoff, and are WAY brighter than stock. The low beams put out more lighting than the old high. ($772)
-3-point seatbelts were added for better safety.
-Stock bench was replaced with TMI bucket seats (and new seat frame). Black leather with black suede and white stitching ($1,200)
-Altman door latches to make closing easier (1-finger they say) along with new door seals.
-New carpet

Sound:
-Borla mufflers were added along with new pipe from the mufflers back. The previous owner routed the exhaust outside of the frame (after going through it). This would be an area to clean up. We left most of it as-is with the intent to change the routing when we did an LT-swap. -These mufflers dump at the rear into some carbon-fiber tips that route out the rear bumper.

Exterior:
-Bed floor and walls were treated for surface rust and then lined with Rhino-liner premium.
What we think it needs to be even better:

-Front and rear windshield (front has a crack). We’d recommend going with a Felser flush mount.
-Door panels and dash pad. We sold them with the old interior, but haven’t created any custom replacements. TMI sells a set to match the seats if you want to go the quicker route. They also sell a matching center console if you don’t want to build a custom one.
-Reroute the exhaust and/or strengthen the frame where the previous owner cut through to route the exhaust. Especially if you’re adding power.
-Though it handles great, we’d recommend a TCI rear coilover setup (outside the frame rails) with Ridetech coilovers to finish the suspension.
-Wiring. The previous owner has wires all over the place. We cut out a malfunctioning MSD box, but some of the wiring for it the previous owner ran is still there. Headlights were wired quickly in anticipation of rewiring the entire truck. There is nothing dangerous, it’s just not to our standards (loomed, deutsch connectors, etc.). Our plan was to drop in a modern American Autowire loom during an engine swap.
-It wants more power. The 350 runs fine but frankly 290hp is nothing these days. It would really wake up with 450-500hp. We were planning on an LT1 or LT4 swap in a year or two.
As you can see we’ve put over $16k just into parts after purchasing it to begin a nice pro-touring ride. And we’re realistic, we know most of that doesn’t come back. What you have here is a great pro-touring start that runs and drives great as-is, but could be so much more with a little more time and attention.

We are asking $22,000 and we think it is a fair price given the labor and quality parts put in, but we’ll see what the market says. You’ll find some nicer-looking trucks in the 20k+ range, but most of them are sitting on stock suspension, stock brakes, and cheap wheels/tires. We were building this to be a solid pro-touring platform, so looks and polish (aside from the wheels) were later on the list. If you check out “polished” C10s from some of the classic car dealers you’ll see they’re mostly taking a stock C10, putting a fresh, quick paint job on it, and calling it done. If you’re looking for something that drives and stops like it’s 1970, this is not it.

Thanks for looking and feel free to ask us any questions! We may consider trades up, down, or straight across if they’re not projects (or super interesting if they are). If you are a serious buyer and there is something you must have done to feel comfortable taking ownership of it, let us know and we’ll see what we can do. We have title in hand.