Used 1973 Datsun 240Z RB20DET swap for sale in La Center, OR

If you have any questions, I will do my best to answer. Include your phone number in your replies so I know you’re a real person. Price is OBO/or best offer

Selling my RB swap Z after years of owning it. I love this car and I've had it for the last 10 years. Main reason for selling is simply because I don’t drive it much anymore. It’s time for it to go to a new home. The RB20 makes a glorious sound, but it isn’t getting used enough anymore. It lives in the garage and was a California car. I will include the Datsun dealer plate bracket

Suspension:
Struts are sectioned with Tokiko Illuminas installed.
Threaded sleeves and collars slide onto the strut for use with the 2.5” coilover spring
Strut tower braces installed front and rear
Urethane bushings installed and mustache bar bushings are done

Wheels/Tires:
Rota RBR 16x8 +0 offset
General UHP Summer tires 205/50R16

Engine/Transmission:
RB20DET (I believe from a 90-92 GTST Skyline)
ARP head studs and new Nissan gaskets installed at the time of swap
Nissan water pump and timing belt installed before the engine went in the car
Turbo is an HKS GT2530 with HKS wastegate actuator (running a modest 12psi boost)
Intercooler is a front mount
Stock exhaust manifold was cleaned of its bosses, smoothed out, and sent to Jett Hot for coating. It looks really good
Coil packs were replaced with split fires.
5-speed for the RB

Management:
Stock ECU with a piggyback Apexi AFC Neo
AEM wideband also to monitor air/fuel
Within the last few years, the fuel tank was removed and cleaned by a shop. They gave it a new coating and installed a larger pickup to handle the EFI fuel pump
Fuel pump is a Bosch unit. Part is easily found by searching for an E30 BMW

Cooling:
PRC Custom Radiator built the correct height for the Z core support
Electric fan is a low profile Spal

Rear diff:
R180 limited slip
4.875 (4.88) ratio
A note on this diff. My buddy who was big in the Datsun scene back in the 90s had this for me. He got it from someone else. Neither of us know exactly what this came from or who made it. I did the fluid in the summer when I did the mustache bar bushings so I have photos of it with the cover removed.
New, Nissan front-lower insulator was installed.
Leather strap is long gone in favor of a Ron Tyler style steel bracket. It’s really beefy and uses a urethane bump stop to limit upward movement of the diff on acceleration

Interior:
Seats are from a Porsche 944. Heavier than stock but very comfy. The driver seat is electric though I never ran power to it. Forward/aft movement and reclining is not done with the electric motors, so running power gets some adjustment of the seat bottom and lumber.

Other stuff:
I do have a MotorSport Auto BRE style spook. It has been on the car and will be included. Lately I just love the look of the car without it. It does actually make a difference on the freeway

I have an AEM Series 2 EMS. The original plan was to run the AEM and have it dyno tuned, but the tuner was rarely available at my friend’s shop

The car has a bluetooth amplifier powering 4 speakers. It works pretty well except its power-on message is always louder than I would want.

The signature on the glove box door is John Morton of BRE. He was at JCCS (Japanese Classic Car Show) one year and was doing signatures. A few of us had him sign our glove box

What do I consider in the needs work column:
It’s cold blooded. When the engine is stone cold, it’s a bit stumbly until it’s been around the block, or has a couple minutes to warm up. It is otherwise fine once it’s warmed up but I want to be transparent.
The other thing that isn't perfect is the speedometer. It reads fast and I usually just use a Garmin or Waze