Used 1983 Jeep CJ Scrambler for sale in Bryan, TX

Lifted 1983 Jeep Scrambler with tons of modifications, not a show car, but doesn’t struggle to get a lot of attention wherever it goes. I bought this Jeep in 2013 with the understanding that it needed some work, only to realize that there was quite a bit more to do than was disclosed. I've spent the last 8 and a half years replacing/improving things. The result being a big, bouncy, loud, 27 year old vehicle that’s like driving a WWII fighter plane down the road, and it’s more fun than you can imagine. The 4wd works and with the gearing it will go up/over/through anything you put in front of (or behind) it. It’s unlike anything else you see on the road, and is built to be able to handle itself off-road. All the gauges and lights function and I have a clean Texas title in my name, vehicle is registered/insured and passed Texas State inspection as of 7/18/2020. It will do 65mph, but given the gearing it’s not thrilled about it. I wouldn't expect to be making great time in it if you're taking it very far without trailering it. If you choose to have it shipped, I'm happy to help get it onto a trailer, but anything beyond that is in your court. The rust isn’t going to get any better unless you address it, but you’ll be hard pressed to find a more fun, over-built Scrambler for the price. I hate to be selling this Jeep after everything I've put into it, but taking my 5yr old on Jeep rides around town isn't really what I built it to do.

Below is a list of everything that’s been done that I can think of. I may have forgotten some stuff though, so please ask any questions you have and I’ll try to answer and provide pictures if I can. This may seem like a lot of information to put out there, but I don't want anyone to wind up with something they're not prepared for.

Upgrades that were done before I got it:
Sunpro Mini tachometer
YJ Windshield frame installed
The metal in the YJ frame is thicker, and swapping it in helps solve an issue with the windshield wiper arms bending and failing.
Twin-stick kit for Dana 300 Transfer case
Allows High and Low ranges to be applied to one set of axles at a time, which can help out when four-wheeling in tight spaces. Both High and Low work great and shift smoothly.
Locking Tuffy Center consul and locking Tuffy glovebox, I have keys for both
Oversized Chevy Blazer brake booster/reservoir
Rear quarter panels and rockers covered with ⅛” diamond plate
Heavy duty front and rear bumpers with welded on D-rings
Tons of other stuff that I had to rip out or redo because they were done… poorly.
Upgrades that were done by me over the last 7yrs:
(I have receipts for all this stuff, I've never totaled them up, but I'm pretty sure if I did my wife would leave me, also pretty sure my picture is up at NAPA HQ somewhere)

-Engine-
('78 AMC 258 I6)
Completely rebuilt over Spring of 2020, currently has ~500 miles on it
Torn completely apart, all components hot tanked and scanned at Vilas Motor Works Bryan, TX
Vilas Motor Works rebuilt the head, ground the crank, and returned everything to me for the rest of the rebuild.
New camshaft
New piston cups, rings, bearings
All new gaskets, timing gears/chain, lifters, rods, rockers
New motor mounts
New spark plugs/wires
Weber 38/38 Carburetor
Freshly rebuilt and tuned with help from The Bug Clinic Bryan, TX
MSD Blaster Ignition Coil
• Distributer cap/wires upgraded to Ford style following the "Team Rush" upgrade method (google it) which allows for bigger plug gapping and better sparking resulting in better power/more efficient fuel burn.
Ignition Control Module
New Starter
New Starter Solenoid
New Heater Core
New 4 row aluminum radiator with stainless steel overflow tank.
All new Coolant lines
Coolant system filled with Evan’s Waterless Coolant
Fluid doesn’t build pressure, cools more efficiently, and never needs to be changed.
Twin Electric fans with shroud that kick on automatically or can be switched on manually
Mechanical Fuel Pump
Electric pump wired to switch on dash
-Transmission and Transfer Case-
(T-176 4-speed w/ Dana 300 twin-stick)

Rebuilt Transmission
• New 1st&2nd synchro
• New reverse slider gear
• New bearings
• New Springs/Blocking rings/Sync Plates
• New seals/gaskets/fluid

Resealed T-case
• New Gaskets/seals/fluid

-Axles and Driveshafts-
Dana 44 front axle from an early 80's Jeep Wagoneer
Ford 9" rear-end with 31 spline axles from a late 80's f-150
Axles have super low 5:13 gears
All wheels have 11.75” disk brakes
Rear brake calipers are brand new 87 Cadillac Eldorado style with parking brake from Ruff Stuff Specialties
Front Axle has SuperWinch Locking Hubs
Rear Driveshaft replaced with Tom Woods "Top of the Line" Double Cardan Custom Drive Shaft with "Gold Seal" U-Joints

-Frame & Suspension-

When I first bought the jeep I found that the frame had rusted through in spots, so I ground out all of the weak/cracked places and welded on patches made from two pieces of welded together 3”x3”x ⅜" or ¼" angle iron. Essentially the patches look like long taco shells that are at least ⅜" thick on each side, and ¾" thick on the bottom that go up around the frame and are welded in-place around their entire perimeter. The end effect is much stronger than the original frame and will easily outlast anything thrown against it. While I was grinding and welding under there, I took the opportunity to out-board the rear shocks and paint the frame with POR15 rust inhibitor and then with POR TopCoat.

Installed Rocky Road Outfitters:
SOA kit/Wrangler Spring conversion/HD Shackle Hangers
Out-boarded rear shocks
Brand new (as of 10/2/2020) Doetsch Tech shocks on all four corners
New JKS Quick Disconnects for sway bar
New sway bar bushings

-Body and Interior-
Installed fiberglass hardtop from rallytops.com
Can be removed along with doors if you want an open-air ride
Installed stainless steel door latch pins/mounts
Body rotted through just below the drivers side upper door hinge, which caused the door to sag. I cut out the rust and made an over-sized stainless steel plate that bolts on and secures the hinge, and then painted everything black. Not the prettiest mod, but it keeps the door from sagging and allows it to close without having to slam it.
Replaced ignition and door key cylinders
Passenger-side window regulator replaced
Installed new windshield gaskets and glass
The dash pad cracked, so I bent a stainless steel plate to cover the damaged area
Pulled the diamond plate off the rear quarter panels and ground out/painted the rust that had formed underneath. Bolted back on the panels and then welded them to the body.
New body mounts installed with all stainless steel hardware
Drivers side mid-body mount is uninstalled due to body rust.
At some time in the past, a previous owner drilled holes in the hood for a hood ornament, removed said hood ornament, and bondo’ed the hood. I noticed the holes from the underside and, like an idiot, pushed on one with a screwdriver. So as not to leave a hole in the hood I mounted a chromed brass aircraft air-speed sensor on as a new hood ornament.

-Steering-
Installed "the 500" wood wrapped chrome steering wheel
Installed high-steer steering linkage with ⅞" Heim joint ends
Built a 1" drag link with ⅝" Heim joint ends from a solid steel bar
Installed stock style "Straight" pitman arm
Maximizes the turning ability of the Jeep, even with the over-sized tires
Replaced upper and lower bearings on steering shaft
Installed new power steering pump and supply line

-Electrical-
Rewired the entire vehicle front to back with a KwikWire Hot Rod wiring harness
Powers everything in the Jeep with several circuits left over for additional accessories.
Built and installed a dome light
Upgraded the heater blower motor to an '87 Chevy Blazer blower
Much more powerful motor that pushes a lot more air
Dropped in an Optima Yellowtop battery
Installed 12v mini amp with AUX cable so you can play music from your phone. One speaker in front and two in the rear. The sound isn’t great, but it gets loud enough to drown out annoying passengers.
-Exhaust & Fuel-

Team Rush upgrade and Nutter Bypass done to improve engine performance. While the engine runs a lot happier, it will not pass California emission test. Most states don’t require emissions for cars this age, but you should know your state's laws on the subject, this link is a good resource for that info: LiftLaws
New catalytic converter installed before muffler
Installed New Fuel Pumps
Mechanical and Electric
New Fuel Filters
One immediately after fuel tank, one just before carb
Bent and Installed new steel fuel delivery and return lines
Installed all new fuel fill/vent/delivery hoses
Stock 20 Gal plastic fuel tank was removed/cleaned/reinstalled with new fuel sender
Installed new stock-sized exhaust manifold/down pipe/muffler
Tail pipe professionally bent and installed
-Brakes & Clutch-

Ruff Stuff rear calipers with parking brake installed
New from Inline Tube:
stainless steel master cylinder lines
stainless steel front brake hard lines
stainless steel rear brake line
proportioning valve
Rocky Road Outfitters extended rubber brake lines in front
Novak Adapters hydraulic clutch conversion kit
Jeep Wrangler style hydraulic clutch master cylinder
Flywheel has been resurfaced and new ring gear installed
New clutch & throw-out bearing
-Wheels & Tires-
• American Racing "Baja" 16"X10" aluminum wheels
• 35X12.5R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R with Kevlar reinforced sidewalls professionally mounted and balanced

Things that still need Attention:
I bought and originally owned this Jeep in NY State, and the road salt there started making a meal out of the metal. Since moving to Texas, I’ve done a fair amount of patching, but the body has got its share of rust through.
Both front floor pans were “patched” by a previous owner with fiberglass. The drivers side has a couple good sized holes, the passenger side is better, but still not great.
The rear wheel-wells are rotted out where they meet the fender flares.
The windshield frame is starting to rot where it seals against the body.
Weather striping around doors/door windows is shot and the Jeep gets wet inside when it rains.
Blinker doesn't always turn off when you turn right. I don't think about it any more, but I feel like it's worth mentioning
Paint is mis-matched flat black, I’ve done touchups to try to prevent further rust; but again, it’s no show Jeep
Fuel tank still burps gas if filled until the pump shuts off
Temp gauge reads high, I installed a radiator mounted temp gauge to confirm engine is running at correct temp. I’ve driven this jeep at 55mph in 100+ degree weather and the engine stays right around 180.

Wow, you made it all the way down here, Good Job!

Thanks for looking