Used 1985 Chevy K20 (Built)(Snow Plow) for sale in REYNOLDSBURG, OH

PRICE DROP 10/23/19

Make some money with this truck...... Can add in a Western Uni Mount Pro Plus Snowplow with Buyers Wings for a total of 9'6" blade width. ADD $1000 to purchase price or make an offer on all of it. Comes with joystick controller and all LED lights on plow bar.

1985 Chevy K20 Truck

I’ve owned this truck since 2010. Has A LOT of upgrades in the past several years that have been professionally done. ONLY reason for selling is I want to finish another project as a father/son type deal. If you live around this area I’m sure you already know this truck.

The engine is a fuel injected Gen VII BBC 8.1L. Engine was tore all apart and built by Doug Mann Performance in Ohio. ALL internals were replaced and/or upgraded except the crank (was inspected and found to be perfect). Engine bored .030” over to 503 c.i. Heads were shaved .012” and rebuilt by RMS in Ohio. Springs are Comp Cams with rotator eliminators. New Comp retainers and locks as well. All heights were checked and shimmed as needed. Cam is a Raylar BP203 custom grind. Intake is ported as well and PCV moved to an external type system. Have all receipts for everything installed in this truck and the engine alone exceeds asking price. Engine makes damn good power.

Engine
- Gen VII BBC 8.1L Fuel Injected
- 503 ci after rebuild with all new internals built by Doug Mann Performance
- Rebuilt heads by RMS
- Raylar Engineering Cam
- Comp Springs
- Comp rotator eliminators
- External PCV
- Extensive porting on Intake and TB port matched
- Headman Stainless Steel Headers
- 3” hand-built exhaust
- 4 core aluminum radiator (good for 1000hp by manufacturer. Never exceeds 180*-185*)
- Front bracketry is set up for A/C just never installed (brackets brand new from GM)
- MSD wires
- Dual batteries (Interstate Brand)
- Less than 1000 miles on rebuild
- Mechman 300A alternator
- All engine functions run off factory LS1b controller and EFI Live tuned by Justin @ BB Performance and myself
- DBW throttle body
- CPW stand alone fuse block with extra fuses for future upgrades

Drivetrain
- Th475 (like a 400 but straight cut 1st gears, etc.) Built by CT Transmissions.
- NP205 Transfer case (refreshed when installed)
- JB Custom Fab Twin Stick t-case shifters
- B&M Pro Stick (modified gate)
- Trans temp boss in pan
- B&M oil cooler used as a trans cooler (Never runs over 150* even on hottest days)
- Braided stainless steel lines for all of trans and cooler with AN fittings
- ACC 3200 stall converter (9”)
- New ’98 custom fit and balanced driveshaft from Drive Line 1
- New OEM front driveshaft
- All u joints are Neapco greaseable joints
- 33” 16.5” tires (needs new ones but I’ve ran em since I’ve owned it with no issues)

Chassis
- Frame is not rusted through anywhere
- Bottom of cab and bed not rusted through anywhere
- Bed c-channels are all intact
- Spring pockets are perfect
- New bearings in front axle
- New Neapco u joints in front shafts
- All new tie rods, center link, and steering shaft rag joint
- Lock out hubs
- Rear Disc Brakes conversion with bias selector knob on frame to adjust rear brake psi
- New seals in rear axle
- 4.10 gears front and back
- All new brakes lines all around
- Braided stainless steel caliper to frame lines
- New ’87 baffled fuel tank for EFI with Delco pump and new pickup
- New Russel fuel lines with ’98 style fuel filter
- 4” lift springs
- 3” body lift
- HID lights with composite headlight conversion
- Billet grille

Interior
- Autometer UltraLite II led gauges (Fuel, Coolant temp, Trans temp, Oil PSI, Tach)
- Wired for electronic speedo just never installed
- Check engine light in dash
- OBD2 port below dash for engine
- DBW pedal with original pedal fabbed to new assembly for OEM look
- Pedestal mounted B&M Pro Stick shifter with modded gate pattern
- Wing windows work just fine
- Rear sliding window works just fine
- Factory A/C truck
- New heater core
This truck is basically bullet proof. I would have no issues driving it anywhere I wanted to. You can beat on it as hard as you want and it wont break. Its built to withstand it. I like to overkill things so I don’t have to replace it again. Once and done.

That being said this truck is strong as can be mechanically. Cosmetically it is pretty good considering its age but does have a few rust spots here and there. The hole in the bed I cut out and was going to replace but never got to it. Inside of bed panel is still fine as its been primed since I did it. Bed is in excellent condition given most around here are rotted to hell and back. Mostly on the surface. The rear bed end plate above license plate does have rust through. The front drivers side fender has some rust thru at the bottoms. You can find em cheap enough to replace though. Inner fenders aren’t that bad. The worst part is the outer rocker on the driver’s side. It is rusted on top but inner rockers are still fine. Outside of driver’s side rocker is ok as well from a cosmetic standpoint. Drivers door has some rust on bottom near b pillar. Passenger door is fine and solid. Passenger rocker is pretty solid as well. Just a small piece of rust near front and nothing on outside. Bed corners are perfect. Cab is solid. When I bought this is had a very thick layer of farmers grease on the underside that helped prevent most of the rust issues you see with these trucks around here. Most of it is just cosmetic as I said. I don’t want to say it’s a 10/10 and waste anyone’s time nor mine but it’s not that bad at all. Nothing structurally bad at all. None of this would matter to most people being the most expensive and hard part is done on this truck but I just want to be honest about it. It’s easy and cheap to bolt on some panels and weld in rockers. That was this winter’s project if I kept it. This truck was Ziebart treated at one time as evidenced by the plugs in the rockers. This truck was mint when I got it but I’m the dumbass that let it sit outside (Garage not big enough for it) and never hardly drove it. It did sit on concrete though and was driven once a week mostly. Still holds true now. About once a week I drive it. Just don’t have time to drive it so its time to let it go as hard as that may be. Hell I think my son is going to have a harder time than me letting this go….hahaha. I don’t have the free time I used to with the kids getting older so need to downsize the fleet to a more manageable size. That and I have another project (on a truck I already own) I’ve wanted to do, WITH my son for some time now, so my mind is made up. Plus the time is now for square bodies as that’s what everyone wants. Lord knows they are hard as hell to find in any decent condition. Restored ones are going for over $50k+.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask. I’m sure I forgot a bunch of stuff but that’s the majority of it.
NO TRADES AT ALL. I’m downsizing! If the ad is up its still for sale. Don’t think you’re going to drive it with no cash on hand.

$8,000.00 OBO.

All REASONABLE offers will be entertained.