Used 2007 Saturn Ion 2 for sale in Prescott Valley, AZ

2007 Saturn Ion 2 for sale in Prescott Valley, AZ
2007 Saturn Ion 2 for sale in Prescott Valley, AZ – photo 2
2007 Saturn Ion 2 for sale in Prescott Valley, AZ – photo 3
2007 Saturn Ion 2 for sale in Prescott Valley, AZ – photo 4
2007 Saturn Ion 2 for sale in Prescott Valley, AZ – photo 5
2007 Saturn Ion 2 for sale in Prescott Valley, AZ – photo 6
2007 Saturn Ion 2 for sale in Prescott Valley, AZ – photo 7
2007 Saturn Ion 2 for sale in Prescott Valley, AZ – photo 8
2007 Saturn Ion 2 for sale in Prescott Valley, AZ – photo 9
2007 Saturn Ion 2 for sale in Prescott Valley, AZ – photo 10
2007 Saturn Ion 2 for sale in Prescott Valley, AZ – photo 11
2007 Saturn Ion 2 for sale in Prescott Valley, AZ – photo 12
2007 Saturn Ion 2 for sale in Prescott Valley, AZ – photo 13
2007 Saturn Ion 2 for sale in Prescott Valley, AZ – photo 14
2007 Saturn Ion 2 for sale in Prescott Valley, AZ – photo 15
$1,200
  • 167,272 mi.
  • VIN 1G8AJ55F37Z118748

Vehicle Details

2007 Year 1G8AJ55F37Z118748 VIN 167,272 mi. Mileage
$1,200 Price sedan Body Type full-size Size
red Exterior Color fair General Condition clean Title Status
4 cylinders Cylinders automatic Transmission fwd Drive Train
gas Fuel Type

Vehicle Description

2007 Saturn Ion 2, 2.2L L4 Ecotec Gen 2 L61 engine. This is the first model they switched to coil packs. Has higher strength Gen II block from previous models, as well as revised cylinder header (enlarged exhaust ports). Changed to E37 controller with new crank and cam sensors for PZEV standards. Compression ratio 10.0:1. Specs say 145 hp @ 5600 rpm, 150 ft-lb @ 4200 rpm torque.

I think I am the only owner, it's a 2007 and I bought it new in 2007, but it did have a few thousand miles so maybe someone else had it for a few weeks, I don't know. Factory miles perhaps?

I'm calling it fair condition because of all the cosmetic problems you might expect for 15 years old; clear coat peeling, weather stripping is curling, head lights are foggy, missing hub cap, stains I can't get out, carpet isn't the best any more, etc etc.

The ignition key will often stay locked in the cylinder while the engine is on, you have to press a button under the steering wheel to release it. This is a known recall, I tried to have it fixed 3 times and it keeps happening, so maybe the dealer wasn't very good? I have the recall paper if you want to try again.

It has a slow oil leak, very slow, and I think this is what made the starter go out twice. I don't even have to add oil between maintenance because it's so slow, but it is annoying to have a leak down there somewhere.

I've replaced the starter twice either because of the oil getting on it, or because Autozone starters are junk (so I've heard).
The battery is new from May 2021 with a 3 year warranty, Duralast Gold.
Tires are ok, just one of them replaced July 2020 and others before that, but it hasn't been driven much in the last few years, only as a backup car if our van is out.
Replaced throttle body in 2/2019 due to a low power issue and throttle position error code.
Windshield replaced as needed, no cracks at this time.
Power Steering motor replaced around 60k miles.
Regular oil changes.
Has spare tire in the trunk.
The engine has always been real reliable!
The reason I'm selling it is because it has an issue I can't fix and don't want to pay to fix. Really this should be considered a "mechanics special". There is compression loss with cylinder 2 and 3, or between cyl 2 and 3. The engine will go from full power to half power and the dash lights will blink and it multiple fault codes show up such as:
P0303 – Powertrain. Cylinder 3 misfire detected
P2432 – Powertrain. Secondary air injection system air flow/Pressure sensor circuit low bank1.

I took it to Kirby and basically they said they would like to replace the head gasket and other gaskets and seals, as well as do a valve job (optional, but could help improve things). They think the gasket may have a leak between the cylinders, and so they said it's a "ticking time bomb" and that I shouldn't drive it. It would cost close to $2000 for them to do everything they way to do. However, if you have a garage and some basic tools or just know how to replace gaskets yourself, this is an easy win. I just don't have the time or space to take the head off, I don't have a garage to keep everything safe and clean. I've watched Youtube vids of people doing this in 30 minutes, so I really don't know if it's a big deal for someone who knows how.

I didn't want to drop that much into it, and I certainly don't want to junk it since it's a fully functioning car.

If you know how to pop the head off and change some gaskets and seals, this is an easy win for a daily driver, college kid, 2nd or 3rd vehicle, etc. But I must caution against driving it as-is, I'm afraid the compression issue if left unchecked will lead to some kind of engine damage like fluids mixing or whatever.

You will be free to start it, drive it etc if you want to test, but don't buy it without a plan to figure out the compression issue first. Simple project car for someone who knows what to do or can follow some YouTube vids.
If this were in decent cosmetic shape, it could sell for $3000-$4000, but I think it's a good project car to play around with.

$1200 OBO

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