Used Fixer-Upper 2002 Bonneville SE Sedan 4D "as is" - cars & trucks - by... for sale in Wyoming , MI

***Please read carefully so you understand what you are getting***

2002 Dark Gray Pontiac Bonnie, 3800 engine

Drives fine

purchased from mechanic in Aug 2014. I have no idea of what the history of the car is -- except it may have been sitting for a while in a junkyard before the mechanic bought it. It has a normal (green) title.

Comes with 2 Keys (no FOBs -- just plain keys -- not sure if it is capable of even having a FOB -- when I bought it, it just came with one key)

Tires are decent (60K rated tires purchased in 2018, drove about 18K -- though I've never come close to getting the full rated mileage out of a tire in any car!) They were just rotated a few weeks ago.

Brakes are OK, not sure how much life is left on them.

A few things that I can remember have been repaired since I've had it are brake lines (2019), rear shocks, front end work + alignment, headlight (lamp), front calipers & brakes (2018), MAF sensor (2017), alterntaor (2017), plugs & wires, thermostat & coolant sensor (2017), rear brakes & calipers (2017)

Power Windows

AM/FM/CD

Heat works good

Power seat on driver's side
NOW FOR THE BAD NEWS:

Check Engine Light On - (this has been on for the majority of the time I've driven it. Went to Autozone (Nov 28) and found that the codes are P0107 (Mainfold Absolute Pressure/BARO Sensor Low Input) and P0135 (O2 Heater Circuit Bank 1, Sensor 1))

Anti-Lock Light On (been on for probably over a year -- the brakes work, can't vouch for anti lock system -- but I rarely felt the ABS pulse in this car anyway)

Tire Pressure Light On (this has been on for a few years and just seems to be broken as all tires have pressure)

Windshield has a rather large crack (spans most of the window)

Passenger Side Front Window doesn't work (there is wood in the door holding the window up - I believe the motor works)

Ignition Problem *** READ *** -- since I've had the car, this problem has been present. When you put the key in and turn it to the on position, sometimes it may take 5-10 seconds for the car to recognize the key. So you have to wait for the dash lights to come on before trying to start it. I think something in the ignition doesn't always recognize the security chip and so it doesn't allow power to the car. The problem is definitely intermittent. However, every once in a while, the car will lose power while driving. You have to turn your hazzards on, put it neutral and wait several seconds for the power to come back in order to restart it. This would only happen a handful of times per year so it never bothered me much (and never on the highway). It happened several times in a row to my daughter this summer and it made her uncomfortable. I've driven it several times since then and it has been mostly fine but I'll say I don't trust it. I called the Todd Wenzel dealership (Nov 25), and was told it "might" be that the ignition lock cylinder needs replacement for a cost of $450. Tuffy on 44th & Clyde Park said they would charge $600. *HOWEVER* they both said it would have to be brought in and diagnosed to be sure that this is the problem and not something else (so don't count on these estimates "over the phone diagnosis" until you've brought it to someone capable of doing this repair). If it does have to do with the security chip on the key not being recognized, the average Joe mechanic will not be able to do the reprogramming. If you are an anxious person looking for a deal on a car, this is **NOT** the car for you unless you want to pay to get this fixed right away.

Clock screen is kinda hard to read and not all of the fan control lights are illuminated (no problem if you know the car but irritating for a new driver -- trying to find the fan defrost vs leg, etc.)

Something is off on the driver side wiper -- it's not part of the wiper blade itself (see pic)

Fuse for interior light blows frequently (this is apparently a common problem for this car so I replace the fuse regularly -- 10A in slot 27. From what I read online it could be a bad switch.)

Battery may not be in greatest condition (under rear bench seat) - it is getting old plus it was used heavily in the summer due to the ignition problem already mentioned as my daughter had an episode where she had to start it more times than usual.

Gas Gauge doesn't work reliably (to compensate I always fill it up and hit the trip reset -- around 350 miles I fill it all the way up again. When my daughter drove it, to be safe, I told her to fill up again at 300. She was the type to leave the car running in hot/cold while waiting for someone, etc. making it more difficult to know when to refill)

May need a tie rod end soon on front driver side (tire shakes a bit when merging on the highway, for instance). I thought it was the wheel bearing but someone later told me its more likely a tie rod end.

Big rust spot by gas tank (see pic) some rust on front/back drive side wheel wells

Runner (lower plastic piece) on passenger side loose in back (see pic)

Driver side mirror was hit on a mailbox and re-attached, up/down control doesn't work so great so needs manual adjustment (see pic)

Loses radiator fluid - I check and fill overflow tank every 1-1.5 months (be careful in summer) -- I'm not sure where the radiator fluid leaks as I don't smell it

A/C doesn't work

Lighter outlets don't work great (tried with phone charger)

A bit of interior plastic is coming off on front passenger & there is a gash in the back seat fabric. Other than that the interior is decent for the age of the car.

Trunk lid can preserve water and have it come out when you open it after a rain

Seat belt buckle covers in back seat are broken (they work, just awkward)

Comes with L10111 Oil Filter, spare alternator and two brand new front wheel bearings from Detroit Axle (in box)
(Replaced alternator 3-4 years ago due to a misdiagnosis, but didn't need to!)

There is no manual

The car can be driven "as is" but some of the issues should be looked at soon (drive side wheel shimmy, key, windshield, etc).

$900 OBO. Serious offers only, low balls will not be entertained.
*** Due to issues with multiple CL inquiries, the car will be sold to the first person who can look at it and pay for it (based on my availability to show it). I will do the best I can to preserve "contact order" but it usually becomes too much to juggle to sync with everyone's schedule.