Used Mustang Project Car for sale in Big Wells, TX

I am debating selling my beloved project car. I, unfortunately, haven’t had time to work on it in years, and don’t foresee having the time for a few more still to come, and I feel really bad that she’s just sitting there being neglected. She is a 1991 mustang who started out life as a four cylinder automatic, but the engine and transmission have been replaced with a 347 stroker crate motor (only 1712 miles on it) and T5 (5-speed) transmission. She has shorty headers with an X-pipe, no cats, and the exhaust terminates underneath the car forward of the rear axle (she has mufflers). The rear end has been replaced to the 8.8 inch and has a 3.73 differential gear (and LSD). Shocks/struts are adjustable Koni yellows. She has been upgraded from four to five lug, and the brakes have been upgraded with larger discs (discs in rear too, not drums like stock) and better calipers. The front/rear brake bias is also adjustable, the control to which is under the hood. She has aftermarket black (relatively glossy) wheels, with Nitto NT555 285/35/18 rears and 275/35/18 up front. She has aftermarket Dorman long lug bolts and nuts, to accommodate the ¼ inch spacers in front and ½ inch spacers in the back (you can see the wheel spacing in the last two pictures). The hood has also been replaced with a fiberglass scoop, for clearance and breathability. Finally, the car used to be yellow, but a while ago a friend was curious about using Plastidip to paint a car, so I let him paint mine in exchange for him paying for the materials and helping with the actual work. It’s probably about 5-6 years old at this point and is by no means a permanent solution, I’m sure you can see in the pictures it’s beginning to flake off in some spots.

The front drivers side blinker light needs to be replaced (it’s not there) and the hatchback needs a new lock (mainly so you don’t have to put a screwdriver in there to open it). The real issue with her however is that she’s not running anymore. She hasn’t been really driven since early 2015, with the exception of on and off a trailer for three moves between then and now, the latest being August of last year. As I said, I haven’t been able to work on her in a while, but with so few miles on the motor I’m not entirely sure what the issue is. I do know that the throttle position sensor is not getting a return signal/power, but that’s all I’ve had time to determine in the past year. Good news is I may be able to transport the car for you, so at least you can get it to your place.

On the inside, the car has been completely stripped, the only original thing in there is the steering column, center console (but even that only the shell is used), and the ignition lock (it only locks the wheel). The floor was relined with truck-bed liner (insulation and sound deadening removed first) and cheap bucket seats have been installed. She has a Hurst shifter, one of those entire car wide rear view mirrors that allow you to see 180 degrees, and a small (for quicker maneuverability) Grant steering wheel. The dash is aluminum, Scott Rod Fabrications, as are the door panels and center console inserts. All electronics are on missile switches (there is a red LED above the switch that illuminates when that switch is turned on) except for the stuff that is not a simple on/off. Those things, such as the wipers, blinkers, locks, and windows are on separate, non-missile style, switches. The starter is connected to a push-button, located where the cigarette lighter used to be in the center console. There is also an EFI Program Management System (because the car is OBD 1) with a simple analog display through which you can control and/or tune practically everything having to do with the motor.

I also have a bunch of stuff to go with the car, accumulated over the years, including:
New car cover
3 feet of brake line
Quarter window covers
Haynes manual
Extra ignition coil
Sport comp auto meter dash tachometer
Extra rubber shift boot
Extra normal rear view mirror with instillation kit
2 extra headlights (bulbs and whatnot)
New parking brake cable and hardware
All the extra gauge stuff (wires, light covers for different colors, instructions, etc.)
Heat wrap
Brake bleed tubes and attachments
8 feet of weather stripping (if you don’t use the cover or plan on driving it in the rain you’ll probably want to install this)
Dead pedal
Rubber parking brake boot thing
Extra speed sensor (that goes in transmission)
Extra ignition lock
Assorted brake hardware
Grant steering wheel instillation kit
Extra NGK iridium spark plugs
Extra Dorman lug nuts
Extra shorter black lug bolts you can use if you don’t like the gold color of the ones now (they’re too short to use the spacers though)

Regarding what still needs to be done to the car, other than get her running, is installing the parking brake cable, and purchasing and installing new springs. I was going to get 4 corner weight then order from Steeda based on their recommendations given the weight measurements.

Feel free to shoot me a text show contact info ) with questions or whatever, I’m usually pretty good about responding in a timely manner, even though my work hours can get a little weird.